# The Beginning of the End # 29/5/84 3 weeks plus have passed. Life here has taken on an incredible pace. Especially the past two weeks. Seems like I'm keeping up with nothing as of late. Deb had a rewarding trip to St Lucia. The conference made her question her orientation to health care. The guest speaker was David Warner who wrote "Where there is no doctor". Basically, it's a community-based approach to healthcare. The community health team receives trainings in assessing healthcare problems and how to go about solving them. Most of the health needs are met by the team. A doctor is rarely consulted. As risky as it sounds, it's a quite successful approach and builds community cohesiveness and self-reliance. Deb wonders if she has made the position of physiotherapist indispensable in that she does all the work rather than training the staff & patients to care for themselves. Actually, it's not quite that one-sided. She does train the staff and patients to care for themselves but it's difficult to dispel the mystique of the trained medical person. Actually, the program should be "working-with" oriented rather than "working-for". She's now redoubling her efforts to dispel the notion that only a physio can do it. The opportunity exists too, to pass that orientation on to the next physio. Is there a next physio? Well, it seems so but nothing in the P.C. is for certain. Seems there is a physio coming in for July 1st training and Van is trying to get him/her to come to St Vincent to follow in Deb's footsteps. That would relieve a lot of our extension anxieties and simplify our year-end plans. Just about 2 years(!) ago we began this bizarre & convoluted journey and now we begin to plan for our re-entry into the U.S. life. I'm becoming anxious, for there is still much to do here to prepare for our departure and handing over the job as well as beginning to make outright plans to find work stateside. Development work gets into your blood. Now that the initial agony of settling in has passed. Now that we are comfortable and have made some tangible progress. Now that the opportunity for some real long-term progress has arisen. Now it's time to think of returning to "home". Our consciences are beginning to bother us. Our lives are part of St Vincent. St Vincent is a very large part of our lives. I begin to wonder if we can break free and not regret. Opportunities to serve God and our fellow men and women abound where once there was no hope. In some ways I'm angry for the Peace Corps doing this to us. For wrapping our lives up so completely in the "third world" that it's difficult to extract ourselves. Gads! Where did the change occur? I was so anxious to be rid of this place. Now, I'm anxious about leaving it. As for our travel plans. We got the special dispensation from P.C. and will be going to Europe in September and October. I'm even second-guessing that! The pressure will be off Debbie if her replacement comes but I need to think hard of continuing the unit. Our vacation will make this fall incredibly busy and I think I'll be wanting a slower pace to reflect and plan. We'll get back a mere 5 weeks (maybe less) before our C.O.S. conference. If we early C.O.S. the pace will be terrifying. On the other hand, we will have a chance to see old friends and experience new cultures and scenery. It will be the trip of a lifetime. I'm hoping that all things will go well, smoothly and will come back (to the U.S.) with an incredibly two-year experience that will shape our lives and bring us closer to the reality in the world. That will, I trust, ripple out and change the way others think, too. Deb's brother was married Sunday. A reminder of family events we have missed in the states. It reminds us of how much we love and miss our families and adds a positive aspect to our return. Still, we do need to find a balance there somewhere. Find a way to satisfy our needs to be with our families and still serve those who need us. And that need is great on both sides. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/hy8image.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/hy8image.png) **"Home" - Kingstown Harbour** # New Page # 15/6/84
It's been a busy two weeks. The ‘usual' but also I've been occupied with computerizing our data at the M.I.U. The reason for the computerization is that I'm trying to make the operation of the unit as simple as possible. The programs I'm writing make it easy to enter the data. Then the program will take care of the rest. It will also keep the data in a manageable form and easy to access. Hopefully, it will make things easier…. Lots of correspondence from home. Deb's side has been sending wedding pictures and descriptions of their big event. Mom and Dad Hein might even come visit in October. My side has been keeping us posted on my sister's progress into pregnancy and also kept us up to date on Mindy's father-in-law. Overall, lots of talk about our return to the states as we finish this 2-year odyssey (or oddity). Lots of plans need to be made yet, but it's still too far into the future for anything other than speculation.
Along the same line, we found out that Deb is getting a replacement. What a surprise! Therefore, our agonizing over an extension possibility is now moot. We already wrote to Irene Tarach (a Chicagoan) and she should be arriving in St Vincent on July 21st if I have my dates correct. This young lady is an ‘83 grad. I didn't catch where she has been working. Deb's initial excitement has changed to anxiety because now she wants everything ‘ready’ for Irene's arrival. [We’ll be painting the physio dept. over Carnival weekend]. That arrival will signal the beginning of the end for us and once again we're forced to confront our destiny. I don't know where we'll go or what we will do. All I know is that we have to somehow try to transfer our ‘education’ in this place to something ‘real’ in the states.Jjust as we had to transfer our U.S. culture into a Vincentian situation. The challenge is to scale up our experience here and make the changes in ourselves (which might be temporary if only tied to St. V) into lasting ones. I'm certainly more militant in that I see U.S. foreign policy as completely misguided and much too militaristic (precipitated by the Grenada situation and fixed by Mr Reagan's military aid to St Vincent in the form of guns, ammunition and training which, by the way is being used against the population and fast turning St Vincent into a fascist state). (see I told you I was militant). But I'm equally determined to use myself as a humanizing force in America. That will be ‘small scale’, certainly. but I now am clearly aware of how dehumanizing a lot of what we do can be. Gads, it's much too convoluted and lengthy to go into now. But we as Americans tend to ignore the basic rights of being human i.e. self Self-determination, self-sufficiency, etc. We want too many things our way or not at all. I'm going to try to be open to other avenues.
Next week we go to Grenada and Trinidad which should be interesting as well as (hopefully) restful. It puts a crimp in my schedule but I think I'll be able to get out my monthly report before the Carnival weekend cranks up.
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/lcqimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/lcqimage.png) **Just one of the many costumes at Carnival** # 13/7/84
I was almost afraid to look at the date of the last entry. It's been nearly a month now. I'm losing control of this journal. It is impossible to adequately relate the past months events and that is my fear and the defeat of the purpose of this journal. Hopefully, I'll be able to do a better job in the future. But, the ‘race to the finish’ has already begun and right now I'm lagging the pack….
Trinidad and Grenada were good experiences for us. Grenada was a pleasant surprise. We pulled into Pearls at the marvelous hour of 7:00 a.m. The airport buildings reminded me a bit of Canefield in Dominica: small wooden buildings with galvanized roofs and a ‘well-worn’ look. This is the place the U.S. first invaded, but it shows little signs of being molested. There is an ‘Air Cubana’ plane on the tarmac and a small biplane from Russia. If that is Soviet air supremacy, we have nothing to worry about. Leftovers from the golden days of the revolution. We cooled out there, waiting for the sisters who were to take us into St George's (connected through the sisters in St Vincent). The sisters did show up but we're only going as far as Grenville - about 10 minutes away. Since it was a national holiday (Corpus Christi) we couldn't find cheap, local van transport into St George's so we finally took a cab to the tune of $50. But at least we got into town.The sisters at the convent in St George's were wonderful. They showed us to a spacious but spartan room, got us a bit of morning tea and whisked us out on a tour of the south and end of the island. We saw the more affluent areas built up under Gairy then mostly abandoned during Bishops reign. We also saw the well-bombed-out remains of the Cuban training camp at Calivygny where I did some shell collecting (gun shells…). We also saw some impoverished areas, the Cuban workers barracks, an asphalt plant and an impoverished American barracks (they occupy the two best hotels on the island). Then they took us back, fed us again and gave us a siesta. That afternoon we participated in the Corpus Christi procession with the Anglicans and had a casual after-procession cocktail hour with the sisters. Then off to bed.
Next day we scrounged up the PCV’s on the island as well as paid a visit to the hospital so Deb could meet the physiotherapist and check out the facilities. We found two PCV’s at the Ministry of Agriculture, who I had wanted to make contact with, and ran into a third on our way to lunch. Much talk about the current ‘Grenada situation’ and being PCV’s in general. It was nice talking to our counterparts there. Gave a sense of continuity to the whole thing. That afternoon we caught a ride down to Grand Anse beach. A beautiful stretch of beach marred only by the barbed wire enclosed hotels that the soldiers occupy with sandbag gun placements ‘protecting’ the place. We walked down to the medical school ‘true blue’ campus. Buildings spattered by hastily plastered up bullet holes. That was enough for one brief visit to Grenada. The most impressive thing was the people. Warm, friendly and none of the ‘Gimme dollah’ obsession of Vincentian street people.
The next day took us to Trinidad, a mind-blowing change of pace. Like flying into New York (from our East Caribbean point of view). Cars, cars, cars. Big buildings, high rises and affluent living. We toured the Northwest end on several occasions seeing much beautiful greenery and topography. But what I remember the most was the horrendous traffic. We stayed at a very nice condo owned by Ron's late grandfather. And Ron's ordination was beautiful and moving too. I had a chance to check on some info at IBM and a Gestetner dealer and we spent a long hour filling out visa forms for some Vincentian who who needed visas for India. With business out of the way, we just kicked back and enjoyed it. Then suddenly, it was back to St Vincent.
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/P0Ximage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/P0Ximage.png) **The mighty Cuban/Russian airforce in Grenada, post invasion...**
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ZK2image.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ZK2image.png) **What remains of the Cuban training camp in Grenada, post invasion** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/M16image.png)4](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/M16image.png) **Grande Anse Beach, Grenada** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/hAGimage.png)'](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/hAGimage.png) **Pete and Deb in Trinidad** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Kseimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Kseimage.png) **Fr Ron's ordination in Trinidad (the whole reason we were there)** \\
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/RWsimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/RWsimage.png) **Co-Cathedral staff in Trinidad (for Ron's Ordination)** # 20/7/84
St Vincent was abuzz with Carnival and election happenings. This made it very difficult for me to get on with work and the June report was still unfinished at week's end. Saturday was spent painting the physiotherapy dept ceiling as we prepared for the arrival of the new physio coming in on the 21st of July. We "jumped" on Monday with the National Commercial Bank and spent a long Tuesday afternoon watching the bands parade across the stage. Many beautiful costumes this year, much better than last. Enjoyed watching and participating in our last Carnival.
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/hNZimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/hNZimage.png) **Re-enactment of the Grendad Invasion at Carnival** **That is the Catholic Co-Cathedral we attended while in St. V in the background** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/jAUimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/jAUimage.png) **This is the "jump up" at Carnival - Basically a street party...**
Weds, the 4th of July, we had some Edinboroites over for our real American food. Hot dogs and apple pie. It was a very enjoyable evening. Again, with thoughts of it being our last in St Vincent. The following weekend we rested, trying to catch up on odds and ends and preparing for our every six week pilgrimage to Bequia. So Monday we went over to Bequia, spending a night at Keegan's and a night at the Catholic Presbytery with Mary Keogh (who was over for the BHC meeting). I spent the rest of the week trying to catch up on work that had piled up from our Trinidad holiday and Carnival and succeeded in getting it together by Friday. Saturday (14th) we returned to the physio dept to paint walls and Sunday spent with trim. Which just about brings me up to date.
The new physio has arrived on island and we had a chance to talk briefly at the airport. Next week she should get oriented to the hospital (Deb is anxious for her to see it). I'm going to Barbados for a quick two-day, one night business trip to share experiences with new PCV’s in the M.I.U, business. I'm feeling rushed now. Like the clock is started spinning out of control and the calendar flying. Rushing headlong into C.O.S. in December, just 4 1/2 months away. Many, many items to settle yet. We still have to put the finishing touches on our Europe plans which I'm now having mixed feelings about but, once made I should be able to relax and enjoy.My request for a motorcycle has been denied on budgetary grounds which pretty much pulls out the rug on future plans to expand the unit. I'll try to broaden my scope but with only one person to run things, and no transportation for another anyway, things will probably not go much further until the new PCV arrives in November. I'm okay with that but a bit worried about someone filling in while on holiday in Sept-Oct. I guess I'll have to deal with that as it comes.
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/L9Oimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/L9Oimage.png) **The new Physio - Irene, with Deb and Judith** # 30/7/84
Looks like these entries will get fewer and farther between. Time is passing so quickly, change coming so rapidly, that I can hardly keep up…..Elections last proved a great surprise. There is a new government now. The NDP took 9 of 13 seats which means a new set of ministers (yet to be announced) and a subsequent reorganization of most ministries, departments and statutory bodies. Nothing looking solid yet. One of the NDP’s promises was to reorganize the Marketing corp. But how and when that will happen is anyone's guess. Once again I'm in limbo, looking at a very uncertain future. Work still goes ahead, moving very quickly but how will it change?....
The election came in on the winds of tropical storm Arthur which delayed my leaving for Barbados on Thursday morning. That was a quick trip filled with last minute meetings and errands that left me exhausted and glad to be home. Busy with many things now. A report to write for July, letters of thank you for the Barbados group who brought me over. Plans for Europe to complete. Plans to be made for our return to the states just 17 weeks away! Checked on Eastern's unlimited cost $596 us from St Vincent. Not bad at all and good news for potential visitors. That is firm. Todd however would have to pay $696 since he is traveling alone. Too much perhaps for him. So what's next? Gads, I need to take care of just the most pressing things at the instant once caught up, I can deal with the future.
There is a bizarre array of details to clear up which will accelerate time as the end of our service draws near. Phone call from home was great! It's always good to hear voices and get caught up with the most vital runnings at home - often forgotten in the rush to write an interesting letter. Back to back parties on Sunday, brunch at Doreen's (Sheila's sister) and a PC welcome party for the new trainees. Time flieth!'
[![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/vKVimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/vKVimage.png) **Kingstown General Hospital - Note the "handy" presence of the cemetary behind the hospital** # 7/8/84
August already. Time flieth for sure. Pete and Alan from Dominica rolled in on Saturday. They were supposed to arrive Thursday evening but didn't show. So I returned to the airport on Friday, but still no show. Friday night we went to Dick Henley's for some chili and to watch a movie “Raiders”. In fact it was quite a gathering: Dick and Anne Beinamen, Deb & I, Mary, Nancy, and Forest and Curt Hendricks and Mark, a USAID guy here to meet the conditions precedent for the AG Dev programme. We all got together for chili misc. other food items. A nice time. Except for the fact that I managed to dig up a cold or flu bug on Thurs night (I still have it). Well, Saturday Doreen comes over to tell us we have a call from someone in Dominica. Sure enough it was Pete & Alan at the airport needing directions to our house (they had never got the letter). About an hour later they showed up. And they've stayed these 3 days. It disrupted our schedule but it was nice to have them. Gives us a trial run on playing hosts to visitors.
During the weekend, Deb and I began to speculate about how best to organize our last weeks here. I was toying with the idea of staying with Dick Henley, maybe starting as early as the 8th of September so we could clean up and lock up Mrs Douyon's house and not have to bother with concern about it during our holiday, or last minute tidy up when we left on December 13th. Deb thinks a good compromise would be the 3rd of November. Maybe so. We need to talk to Dick. It would simplify our lives a bit.
Letter written to Westam but now no address so I'll have to write Mom and have her send it. Excitement and anxiety now. Things are moving fast.
# 8/8/84 Too fast. This weekend we went to Botanical Gardens with Pete & Allen and I played tourist taking pictures of flowers and trees. Oh how we need to do more of that! We spent the first 18 months trying to divorce ourselves of the tourist image. Now we want to tour and take pictures so we can try to retain the images that must fade or distort if committed to memory. So much to capture now. So many people I want to photograph before it's too late! Fortunately, Mark Newborough left us his motorcycle while he holidays for 3 weeks. We hope to get out - especially to Montreal Gardens which we have never seen. My thoughts now are jumbled. First I think about home and family. Then about jobs stateside (Egad! Can I do it). Where? How? When? Where will the Lord lead us next? How can we capitalize on our growth and experiences here and transform them into a lifestyle stateside that is compatible with this new worldview we have? When will all this come about? A whole new host of anxiety grips us. A worry about how marketable I'll be. Support Debbie and a future child or two. We've carved out a hard but acceptable niche here. We are finally comfortable in a sense here. Moving back to the States is awesome. But plans and the reality of a tour of Europe is upon us and that needs to be dealt with. Plans to leave, itineraries, connections and endless P.C. paperwork will be upon us when we return from Europe. So much going on now that it is difficult to do more than just prepare for the next 4 months. Where How & When? [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ko2image.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ko2image.png) **Pete and Alan (our visitors from Dominica) and Debbie at the Botanic Gardens** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/7tbimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/7tbimage.png) **Nutmeg with Mace** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/rHfimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/rHfimage.png) **Plum Rose** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/UGtimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/UGtimage.png) **Bird of Paradise** # 14/8/84 Well, some things are falling into place. The Europe trip details are ironed out. We just have to figure out where we are going. But I don't really care. It will just be nice to be on holiday before our hectic but brief re-entry into the Peace Corps life before "Adios". I borrowed a motorcycle from Mark Newborough while he was away in Guadalupe for 3 weeks. Figured it would give us some mobility to see things we haven't seen in the past 20 months. Problem is we were 'grounded' because I'm not 'officially trained' on the motorcycle. A new P.C. policy which has merit but in application hasn't proved its worth. So we do things illegally on the sly. This weekend we motored up to Georgetown and spent the night at the 'Oasis'. We sipped beers on the roof and watched the moon rise over the Atlantic. Keith Paulson was our guide and host. The next day we hiked up the Dry River to a set of waterfalls with a small pool beneath. A bit of tropical paradise. What a beautiful country this is. We even saw a parrot, though briefly. We cautiously motored our way back on Sunday (expecting to see Van our APCD, at every corner). Nice relaxing weekend. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/jQpimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/jQpimage.png) **"Dry" River on the Windward side** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/hQTimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/hQTimage.png) **Refreshing waterfall on the Windward side** We also talked to Dick Henley about our plans to stay with him during our last few weeks of service. He agreed to let us stay if his wife doesn't come down. We'll know more after our trip to Europe. Another bit of news is that I have heard from my replacement. His name is Carl Reis from Wheaton, MD. I don't know much about him but I did write him to fill him in on our M.I.U. Sent him a mess of reports and a long letter. I hope I didn't overwhelm him. Things are in a state of flux here. The government's plans haven't congealed yet and the USAID project may ride until things are on firmer ground. But it looks as though the M.I.U. will get the emphasis that is due. Carl will have a lot going on and will virtually be rebuilding the M.I.U.. Should be an interesting job one I wouldn't mind having. So what else is new? Nothing, really. The routine is pretty well set with only eight or nine real weeks of work left there is really no time to start anything new. I'll be happy if I can get coverage during my holiday (Curt being the most likely candidate). That is a priority but I'm not going to sweat it. If worse comes to worse I'll leave the survey participants with blank sheets to fill out for me (though it's dubious they would). I'll just cross that bridge when I come to it. We are happy and healthy. How things have changed for us. I've looked through this journal on several occasions and have noticed the slow but steady evolution of emotions over the years here. We've made it and we're okay. Much better than I ever imagined and we're now having moments of sorrow for having to leave. We will be going, with a much richer feel for life. Thanking God for our experience here. It's too early for a summing up. But still, I will miss St Vincent and all it has given us. Seems a shame though that it's only now that we've begun to appreciate it. # 20/8/84 Off to Bequia this a.m. We had a very nice weekend. Saturday was the usual. Wash, wash, wash and do odd jobs around the house. Dick & Ann came over after Mass and visited. How I enjoy them! I remember my first impressions of them back in Jamaica. How little I knew then. They are wonderful, warm people and I am thankful for having gotten to know them. We talked about the 'usual'. Plans for our after P.C. life. A smattering of gripes about the St V public service and P.C. life in general. Those gripes are fewer now and much less debilitating. We've all survived and, I think, feel good about that. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/PxKimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/PxKimage.png) **Not a great photo of Dick and Anne - great folks!** Sunday Paul and Margaret and Richard came over and took us up to Buccament valley. We stopped at a quiet spot with another idyllic pool and stream and we swam, picnic and played Judge Dredd (I lost). We've also become quite attached to those folks and will miss them a great deal. Paul and Margaret also bought us some books about France that we plan to peruse to help us get a more detailed itinerary together for our Europe trip. It's a beautiful country (France) and though our lack of command of the French language may be an inconvenience, just traveling the countryside should more than compensate us. I've begun to really look forward to the trip. And speaking of which, I need to check on our final reservations to/from Martinique. I'll buy the tickets next week. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Hymimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Hymimage.png) **Paul and Margrete** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Sy2image.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Sy2image.png) **Richard** [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/uEAimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/uEAimage.png) **Happy Hikers...** As I said, it's off to Bequia again this morning. Seems we just went but that was July 9th-10th. We're taking Irene along to introduce her to the runnings of the place. Joni and Michael should be back in early September but I doubt we'll see them before we go to Europe. We may be able to squeeze in another trip (our last!) in Oct 22nd & 23rd (or 29th & 30th). By then it will be all she wrote....time is racing. # 27/8/84 Ah yes "Tranquility base here"... We did get to Bequia and back with not much trouble. We broke in Irene with the BHC group and spent a couple of leisurely days. I like Bequia. Wouldn't even mind living there (I think). Grace John, who runs Keegan's Inn is such a wonderful hostess. We enjoy staying there. Sad to think that there is only one visit left. Where was i? Oh yes, we showed Irene the ropes and even had pizza at "Mac's" (I thought he'd be closed for the season). Tuesday was the usual routine at "de reef" and we spent most of the PM on the beach enjoying the Caribbean sun. It's hard to convince Irene that PC living is just the "toughest job you'll ever love". She loves it and it ain't even tough. Our meeting with the handicapped committee was fruitful. we're going to try to get a PCV in Special Ed. to help out with the programme. Van said it would be okay as long as we could jump through all the PC paperwork "hoops". Looks like we can. Looks like that will be my legacy. Not much done as a PCV himself but he did start two worthwhile programs while there (the M.I.U. and BHC). Ah well, all in the line of service... [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/3SOimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/3SOimage.png) **Bequia Handicap Programme - Collin - Microcephaly** This Sunday after a particularly worthless week at work (no motivation) we went with Paul and Margaret to Montreal Gardens. What a lovely, serene place. We had it ALL to ourselves. No one else for four plus hours. We walked around and saw the beautiful flora and we also harvested massive amounts of citrus and nutmegs from the trees (I guess we've 'learned' a lot from the kids in my neighborhood). Most of the day was spent talking about our Europe trip. We tried to work out a reasonable itinerary we're still unsure but at least we have plenty of options available to us. Got a letter today from Europe By Car confirming our reservation but also telling us to pick up the automobile in Brussels and not at the airport as I thought. If we don't work that out we'll have to figure a way to get to from the airport. A minor inconvenience anyway. We are ready to go! [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ZT8image.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ZT8image.png) # 3/9/84 Labor day! I'm laboring to get going. We've made it to September! Another “autumn” season in St Vincent. It's been incredibly warm. Very little rain. Very little breeze. Looking back in the journal, not much was said about the heat last year at this time. But I remember it! Still nights…Ah, well. Just 10 days and we’ll be ‘cooling out’ in Europe. The dock strike in England is still on so that may ‘nix’ our plans to go to England. We may change our plans and hang around France and, perhaps briefly visit the Netherlands. I'm beginning to realize that this could be more of a by-ear thing than we expected. But I don't mind. I just plan to relax (as much as possible) and take in the sights. This whole trip is GRAVY. I suppose no one would believe that PC is so ‘tough’ when you can save $2,500 (U.S.) over two years and holiday in Europe. But we have scrimped and saved to go. Cut corners and have held off on other stuff to pull this off. I think we deserve it!! Still haven't heard from WESTAM on our return flight to the U.S. on December 1st (less Than 3 months now). With this being Labor Day (U.S.) the Peace Corps Office is closed. No mail until tomorrow. We wrote many letters this weekend. Catching up on missed correspondence. I still have to complete my SF-171, write a project proposal for the future M.I.U., get a quarterly report off to Van, finish my SAV ‘training manual’ and a host of other odds and ends before we leave for Europe. I guess I better get started…. # 16/9/84 Yeah, we long gone. Germany now & no longer hot. Keeping warm is the problem. But it's nice to be here. Getting here was half the “fun” Departed St Vincent on Thursday morning (Sept 13th) Paul picked us up and we arrived Arnos Vale with plenty of time to spare. Actually the Air Martinique plane was about 45 minutes late. So no sweat actually,our plane left at 7:30 p.m. and we arrived about 10:50 a.m. Except by the time we cleared Immigration and Customs, etc it was past 11:00 so no foreign exchange and no taxi into town, no food either until 3:00 p.m. when the Cambio opened. No lockers either so we either took our bags with, or we stayed at the airport. We elected to do the latter. It was a rainy hazy day anyway. Not much for seeing FDF in. Finally caught lunch at 3:30 and then ambled over to Nouvelle Frontier desk at 4:30. Behind about 125 people who had shown up around 3:00 p.m. (must have flown them before). Worked our way slowly to the desk and fortunately there was someone who spoke English well enough to sort out our ticket problems. Finally managed to figure out what gate to go to and squeezed ourselves aboard (6 across, by I don't know how many rows). We did get some food and drink on the flight but very little sleep. Only one of our seats reclined, Deb and I alternated sleeping on each other and our heads resting on the fold down trays. After about 15 minutes sleep the sun started to come up (about 3:00 a.m. according to my internal clock). Soon after, we arrived at the Brussels airport. Then we caught the train into Brussels. No problem. Actually the easiest leg of the entire journey. We got out at the central station, checked our bags and went out and walked around in a cold rain for a while. To most people the weather would have been miserable, to me it was wonderful. I got pretty frustrated after a while. I wanted to see Brussels, but I didn't want to get soaked. I also wanted to walk to pick up the car, but didn't want to get soaked. We finally called a cab and caught it to the VW dealership and picked up the car. From there we wandered into Leuven to find Margaret's folks which we managed to do without much trouble. # 10/16/84 Four weeks later - returned to St V and back to work. Well, my idea to maintain the journal went bust soon after I got started and will no doubt get worse as THE END draws near. Margaret's folks were wonderful and we quickly got settled in then walked into the Leuven for some food and touring. There was a carnival (fair) going on in the midst of the cold and drizzle. It was a bit comforting to walk, hand in hand, around the seemingly ancient building amid the 21st century light shows. Next morning it was more touring. Down to the Beginage (mid-evil) town around the Rathaus and museums. Perhaps it was because it was our first stop in our European tour but Lueven seems the best to me still. From there it was over to Germany - the Great Adventure had begun. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ytBimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ytBimage.png) Originally we had planned to stay in Aachen but we couldn't find the “Zimmer frei” signs Paul and Margaret had told us about so we headed south into the countryside trusting our luck to find a place to rest our heads. Sure enough, we did find a privat Zimmer near Monschau. The woman spoke no English and summoned her son who explained the costs, the runnings of the shower (cost to DM extra) and told us his mom was on the way to church (which explained why she seemed so unnerved by the whole thing). Once settled, we set out to find a place to eat dinner. Order what we assumed to be a meat dish and ended up with a huge cross-section of many different meats on a flaming platter heaped with french fries! An English-speaking couple at a table across the room wished me a “Happy Birthday” as I unsuccessfully tried to extinguish the blaze. Needless to say, we ate as quickly as we could & returned back to our privat Zimmer across the road. Next morning we ate a wonderful breakfast which more than offset the gloomy fog outside. We packed up, gave our thanks, and cruised off into the gloom. Despite the weather, Germans still insisted on at least 140 km/hr on the Autobahn and, after not too long a time, we retreated to the secondary roads so we could drive at a slightly more reasonable 120 km/hr. We drove along the Rhine and stopped in a town called St Goar to stretch and gawk a bit. It was beautiful. The fog had lifted somewhat at the river so the view was marvelous .... Soon, pressed for time, we were forced on to the Autobahn so as to make it to Augsburg in time to find lodging. This time it was not so easy to find a “Zimmer frei” and we had driven to several towns around Augsburg before finding a Pension to stay the night. (around 8:30 p.m). We unnerved a girl at the fast food place when we attempted ordering something to eat. She got the order right but, uncertain, she sought and found someone who spoke English to reconfirm the order (the young man who ‘interpreted’ was functionally unintelligible in English but she looked relieved so we went along with it..) [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ANUimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ANUimage.png) Our day in Augsburg was a bit disappointing but I'm not sure it was the weather (rain and cold) or our preconceived notion that it would be like a mecca for Lutherans filled with Lutheran memorabilia. It wasn't. Fact is, Germany is Catholic. Luther went over bigger in Minnesota than in Augsburg. To prevent us from exhausting ourselves in the search for lodgings we left for Munich (a short drive) a bit earlier. It was fortunate we did because we became totally lost in the metropolitan chaos common to larger cities. After much driving and asking of direction we managed to get enough information to equip us for our next day's touring and again we departed for the countryside in search of lodging (always assuming it would be cheaper outside the city than in). We found a nice, clean Gasthaus and even managed to shower, wash our clothes and eat self-supplied meal before going downstairs to have a nightcap (I was anxious to sample my first German beer). I wasn't disappointed. The house beer was Lowenbraü and it was marvelous. Deb had a Glüwien (mulled wine) and we trundled ourselves off to bed. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Hwgimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Hwgimage.png) The next morning, after what was to become a typical European breakfast (coffee, tea, bread butter, jam (sometimes cheese too)) we headed back into Münich stopping at an info place on the Autobahn to get some advice. We settled on a bus tour because I was tired of city driving and we figured we would see the basics then return to the things we found interesting. Actually it wasn't a bad strategy. The tour gave us a lot of info on the runnings of Münich and since the weather was cold and blustery I didn't mind the obviously touristic trappings of the tour, nor the fact that we were the youngest on the bus. We did return to the Koenigplatz and the Glockenspiel. Took a quick look around at hte Hofbraü house and relieved some of my nagging paranoia about being out of touch with family and P.C. by stopping in at the consulate to see if there were any messages. We departed Münich and headed, once again, out into the countryside. We settled in at another Gasthaüs on a large lake east of Munich near Staad. The place was deserted as the weather and the time of year was not exactly conducive to a lakeside holiday. I wasn't aware of the fact that covered by the shroud of haze and fog was a magnificent view of the Alps which are mirrored in the lake. Someday perhaps, we’ll actually see them in some way other than on a postcard. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/LrMimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/LrMimage.png) The next day we drove the short distance to Salzburg stopping again at an Autobahn info station but this time being told not to take the bus tour since large parts of Salzburg were inaccessible to vehicles anyway. It was a walking city. Fortunately, the sun was making the attempt to shine and we were glad to stretch our legs a bit. Salzburg is beautiful. A large fortress overlooks the city filled with church spires. It is rich in history. Deb and I took in an art museum and just walked about. A budding artist filled an intersection with a huge portrait, looking disdainfully at pedestrians who dared to violate his street-canvas. We ducked into a McDonald's to use the washrooms (McDonald's always has washrooms) and I sighed that Salt Lake City was not as Innovative as Salzburg in adding beer & wine to the menu as a proper accompaniment to a Big Mac. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ZTeimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ZTeimage.png) That night we stayed at a privat zimmer we had misinterpreted as being 380 rather than 480 Shillings it really was (surprise!). A late night stroll for dinner took us to a small art gallery and some lovely gardens. Surprisingly, we did not worry about being out late. We would have never understood what a robber would have wanted anyway. Next morning we pressed on for Innsbruck, taking the smallest roads our map had to offer (without getting lost). It was a lovely day (at last), with clouds parting enough to give us occasional glimpses of the Alps and warm warming enough to force us out of sweaters. Easy uncomplicated driving. Actually, Innsbruck seems to offer no more than scenery and the partly cloudy to cloudy conditions were not very conducive to tram rides (besides I can do that in Utah) so, after checking out into in-town accommodations we headed out looking for something more reasonable to help offset the misinterpretation earlier that day. What we discovered was a poorly kept but at least fairly clean zimmer for $10 U.S. (200 Sch) with breakfast included. The bonus was the marvelous old lady who ran the place who, though constantly reminded that we didn't speak German, told us her life story anyway (in German). She was wonderful though a bit deaf and perhaps a bit senile (hard to tell when you yourself are apparently deaf and senile due to language incompatibilities). At her insistence we visited her husband's grave and the local church (one of the most beautiful I saw) and we took a long walk around Zirl. A beautiful area and scene of two Winter Olympics (Innsbruck). We brought some provisions in the market and returned to our room for a sumptuous meal of bread, cheese, tomato, lettuce sandwiches and cheap Austrian wine. The wine was helpful in that it warmed our bodies as temperatures plunged (no heat). [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Ohfimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Ohfimage.png) Our Hostess was gone when we came down for breakfast but her son prepared our meal. she arrived just as we were about to depart and she kept up her constant barrage of German presumably telling us goodbye and off we went heading for Fryborg. The Austrian/Swiss (a bit of Liechtenstein too) countryside was awesome and beautiful. Again clouds hampered our vision of the majestic Alps but enough glimpses were caught that we were impressed (even coming from Utah). It was a fairly long drive and we stopped from time to time to eat, stretch or just gawk. We arrived in Fribourg late afternoon and after several misguided attempts found our way to the info office to locate Lucienne, a brief friend of Deb's brother who was at that time a foreign exchange student (10 years ago). We managed to get lost a few times before finally purchasing a map (as we should have it first) and steering directly finding Lucienne's apartment. Unfortunately she was not there so we left a note and found a place to get a cup of coffee. Upon our return she still hadn't returned so we decided to explore the housing possibilities in the area. After a brief but successful encounter with an automat gas dispenser, we found a place to eat (completely unnerving yet another waitress). We made a final check at Lucienne's decided she had departed for the weekend and went back to the hotel we had discovered earlier. There we showered and crashed. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/QGjimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/QGjimage.png) Next morning we swung by Lucienne's to drop a final note, just to discover a note attached to her door explaining her whereabouts and telling us to return at midday. So we left the car and decided to sightsee a bit. We discovered a market where Deb bought some wool pants, and we strolled about the street-side meat and vegetable market (much to my surprise I had thought outdoor markets were common to the W. Indies and South Amer). Finally we returned to and finally met Lucienne. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/mWUimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/mWUimage.png) Actually we stayed two nights (one xtra) with Lucienne because she was such a charming and welcoming hostess, we needed a rest and because it was so nice to talk to a ‘native’ to gain insight on the country. Which points up the main disadvantage of being monolingual. The problem is not taking care of the basics food, sanitation, lodging. Rather it's the isolation of not knowing the language and therefore missing out on the reality of living (knowing the runnings) because you can't communicate with the locals. Anyway Lucienne was a much-needed change of pace and we basked in the glow of her hospitality. She took us to a chateau, we dined on fondue and one day we just went sightseeing in the Alps spending an afternoon watching cheese being made. It was a well-needed break from the hectic schedule. Monday we departed Freibourg for Paris and, except for an altercation with a gas station attendant who couldn't understand my French (I asked for 4 francs and he gave me 6.5), our last miles in Switzerland were pleasant ones. France wasn't so bad either except that I couldn't find an open bank to change money at. What few french francs we had left we spent on some basic provisions so we could eat. By the time we reached Paris we were low on fuel and I was desperate for a place to stop and make some calls to some possible free housing connections or a bank. Neither was forthcoming and my blood pressure was rising and my patience waning as we entered Paris in a 5:00 p.m. rush hour traffic jam. 15 minutes later I was traveling the opposite direction in a desperate move to find a place to change money at the airport. Fortunately we did find a change place at the airport and illegally parked though I was, I stood patiently in line for my much-needed cash. Then a quick trip to the gas station and back out to the road again. The next 3 hours were a nightmare of feverishly checking phone booths to find a working phone and looking for a reasonably priced hotel. The only glimmer of hope died as the nearly functional phone I found repeatedly cut out the moment the party answered. Calls seeking help to an international operator who kept assuring me that I was in Paris and one frustrated operator who could not speak English and finally hung up on me. More driving. Seems all we could find were industrial parks and residential areas. Nowhere was there a hotel. Finally a French-speaking service station attendant who directed us to one hotel down the road (10 km). “Comple” replied the Innkeeper and back on the road we went. Finally, Deb forced me to stop at a restaurant to see if they could give us directions to a hotel. The owners spoke not one word of English yet made reservations and drove-directed us to a hotel. The receptionist spoke English (thank God) and we found our room to be quite excellent and promptly showered and went to bed. The next morning we packed up, loaded the car but this time, armed with information supplied by the receptionist, we headed for the train station where we boarded the commuter train into Paris. Like an idiot, I had forgotten my Michelin guide so we wandered aimlessly, managing to find Notre Dame, the Louvre, Arc de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower plus many other odds and ends (all just like postcards). Calling it a day and counting on checking out the Louvre the next morning, we traveled back out to Montgeron, and remembering our earlier luck at finding hotels, decided to return to the same hotel for the next two nights. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/nvGimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/nvGimage.png) Paris, day two, was much like Paris day one. In fact, we managed to duplicate our 1st day itinerary and added the Hotel des Invalides and a shopping tour through Gallery Lafayette and Pretemps (on the completely erroneous information that it was a “cheap place to shop”). We had business to do too (reconfirm our return flight and booking passage across the channel). The ‘business’ took us in a nearly double loop again, retracing steps. We didn't see much but we saw it at least twice!! (a word to the wise. PLAN!). Exhausted from walking we again returned (by Metro and train) to Montgeron. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/04timage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/04timage.png) [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Jr3image.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Jr3image.png) In the morning, we headed south and west toward Tours. We intended to spend as much time as possible on smaller roads. Taking our time and soaking in the sights. We stopped for an hour or so in Orleans discovering (of course) that most shops and sites were closed for the lengthy French lunch hour (12 to 2:00 p.m). We did manage to buy the usual lunch (baguette, cheese lettuce and tomatoes) and we headed out of town to find a quiet roadside spot to eat. As usual, we gave up looking & simply pulled over and ate, just to discover, upon resuming our travels, an excellent picnicking spot was just a half mile away. We made stops at several castles (chateaus) but refused to pay the $2-5 (US) in order to see the insides. The outsides were beautiful enough and in order to do justice to a castle tour one needs plenty of time, and that we were short of. So the day was spent cruising, shopping and gawking. And we eventually, after some trouble and debate, settled into a one-star hotel for $85 French francs ($9 US). I get picky when it comes to staying at a hotel and sometimes I regret it. Fortunately, my peculiar tastes paid (often it doesn't). We called Denis after settling in and left a message with his “automatic replayer” that we would be there the next evening. Then we went back to our room and had a replay of lunch (with wine) and went to bed (exciting aren't we). The weather was much more encouraging the next morning and, after the usual bread, butter, jelly and coffee, we set out once again. We stopped in Angers for a break in the driving and to check out a castle (closed as usual for lunch). We reprovisioned at a couple of stores before they closed and climbed back into our trusty Polo-c for the easy drive to Rennes. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/mcBimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/mcBimage.png) Our plan, when we arrived in Rennes was to find a post office, phone or train station and try to locate Denis’ apartment. Again, our first challenge was finding someone who could speak English (fruitless). The train and bus stations proved to be worthless sources of information since the only info they provide is on their own trains and buses. A haphazard search (following signs that pointed in random directions) did miraculously turn up a post office where we both got directions to Denis’ place and change some money. And, after several missed turns and doubling back we managed to find his place. However as his “automatic replayer” apparently told us in French, he was not at home. So we called his girlfriend (Anne) whom I assumed lived in the same complex (not so). She offered to pick us up and show us the way to her place and wait for Denis to arrive at 10:00 p.m. that evening. About 15 minutes later, she showed up walking. Denis’ car was having mechanical difficulties. So we drove her back and camped out at her apartment. We made small talk and she made a couple of trips: one to pick up food and one to pick up a friend of Denis’ who also happened to be dropping in for a visit that weekend. Finally, we met Denis at the airport and returned to Anne's apartment for a three-course ‘snack’. Eventually we tumbled into his apartment and into bed. The weekend with Denis was very enjoyable. We went to the open street market and out to a place called Mont St.Michelle. We were constantly plied with food and wine and were refused at every attempt to pay. First Denis then Anne then Nicole would buy something for us. That was frustrating. We also went to a place called St Malo. All of it beautifully & impeccably French. Sunday (the next day) was a bit more restful. Nicole left for her home and then Denis and Anne and Deb and I went to a Creperie for lunch then went mushroom picking. We finally ended up at a movie “Paris Texas” subtitled in French (thank goodness) and returned to Denis’ apartment for a late night snack of fresh fried mushrooms. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/sLSimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/sLSimage.png) Monday morning, Anne and Denis left before we did, which allowed us to leave some money to reduce the damage of their extravagance. We finally packed up and left, making a beeline for Boulogne to catch our “Sea Link” ferry to England at 8:00 p.m. Again it was a pleasant, uneventful drive. We even arrived early enough to find a P.O., make some sandwiches and fill up with gas before driving onto the boat, parking the car and taking a seat in the “motorists lounge” where we enjoyed our lovely sandwiches, had coffee and tea and gently crossed the channel. After a few brief formalities at customs and immigration, I cautiously wielded the Polo over to the **left** and we began to search for a bed and breakfast place that was reasonable. Deb was tired and remembering our terrifying night cruising the banlieu of Paris we said “yes” to £8 per person (B&B) asked by the first place we checked. So much for ‘shopping around’. We were in England! # 19/10/84 In the morning we headed toward London. Croydon, more accurately. We had deciphered Linda's handwriting and headed to Croydon to find K&L's flat and make some calls. When we arrived in Croydon, we went to the train station to call and find out Keith's phone number and the location of his flat (assumed both would be working). We also wanted to call Richard and say ‘hello’ as well as get Kesh’s phone number and address in Southend-on-Sea since we wanted to go see him that evening. Our attempt to get Keith's phone number was fruitless (unlisted) so we called Richard and told him we would swing by. We did have Keith's address so we went over to his flat to leave a note with our whereabouts and told him we would be back later in the week. The ring of the bell was belatedly answered by Keith himself, dripping with water and suds wrapped in a towel and sporting a completely black face. He had been working on his car. After completing his shower, we talked for a while over coffee reminiscing about St V and catching up. Linda was at work. We left him saying we would return (hopefully) by the end of the week and armed with instructions on how to get to Acton we left. We crawled to Acton. The traffic was horrible and I managed to lose our way on several occasions. By some miracle we found ourselves in Acton (I'm still not sure just how). Anyway we did manage to find Richard and he called Kesh. We got some basic directions from Kesh and he told us to call when we got to Southend-on-Sea. Richard gave me Kesh's telephone number. Richard had also made plans for us to go to a play the next evening with Jim Rutherford and his wife so our stay in Southend would be a short one. I braced myself (could have used a shot of strong rum) and off we drove into the rush hour traffic. It wasn't so bad. The N Circular Road around London is not as bad as its twin in the south (that is a collection of torturously pieced together roads called the S Circular). We made it to Southend in record time, at the place Kesh told me to call from. To my horror, I discovered that the phone number Richard had given to me was wrong. There was no such number in Southend. And we didn't know Kesh's last name nor even the faintest hint of his location but resolved to try to identify his name (last) from a phone book if we could find one. So we drove and drove checking every phone box we could, no dice. We finally ended up in desperation back at the spot Kesh had told us to meet him and call him from in hopes he might send us a search party. I finally decided to try Richard (supposedly out to dinner) one last time. Lo and behold he was home! I quickly sorted out the numbers problem with him and then called Kesh 1 1/2 hours later than expected. He showed up 45 seconds later - he only lived a hundred yards from where we were sitting! After explaining the situation and briefly washing up, we headed out again (he drove). He took us to a Chinese restaurant and then to an Indian Festival he wanted us to see. We watched and danced, sharing in a bit of his cultural roots. It was a very ethnic evening and I appreciate Kesh for sharing it with us. Next morning amid the cold, drizzle & wind, we walked around with Kesh and he showed us Southends sights (and a bit of childhood trivia). We walked through town, bought us some coffee & me some running shoes (finally) then we packed up and headed back out to London. This time we managed to find Acton without delay and we quickly changed into ‘evening’ clothes and went down into London. It was just about what I expected it would be. Perhaps because London has been well exposed in photographs, etc. We walked around a bit killing time until we were to meet Jim & Rocio in a pub. Richard showed us some ‘trendy’ spots to buy clothing and we passed the 1st National Bank of Chicago which just about blew my mind. in fact the Safeways, 7-11’s, McDonald's, etc would have convinced me I was stateside if it hadn't have been for the surroundings. Finally we met Jim & Rocio and had a few drinks at the pub (I had my first ‘real’ English bitter). Then we exited for a quick meal and on to the theater. The play was “Falstaff” a ribald yet touching play (one man recalling the embellished life of Falstaff of Shakespeare's plays). Quite good I thought, though the critics panned it. Finally we got to Jim and Rocio's apartment and collapsed into bed. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/MnSimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/MnSimage.png) **Although this was taken in St. Vincent, it is a great picture of Kesh, and Richard, both of whom we saw in England** **(and beautiful Debbie as well)** # 22/10/84 In the morning and after a shower which made Jim late for work, we headed back into London on our way to Acton to catch Richard. We had gotten quite good at deciphering the subway/metro/Underground system and found public transport much more appealing than chaotic drives. We wanted to go to Acton first to see if I could locate some travelers checks so we could buy some pounds (no sweat really with the 1st of Chicago Bank in town I could always get cash on my Visa). We located the checks found Richard & promptly headed back into London on the Underground. Richard was going to take us around and show us the sights. Once in London I called Keith Harvey, Jim Rutherford (to confirm a Sunday lunch date) and my sister's sister-in-law, Jennifer in Oxford to tell her who we were and that we would drop in for an overnight stay that evening (surprise!!) With business done, off we went. I've got to say that Richard was probably the worst guide I've ever known. As a ‘Londoner’ I expected him to know what to see and how to get there, not so. in fact, as some old rumors prove to be true, the last person to use as a guide is someone who lives there. Find yourself a well-seasoned tourist to show you around. We did see all the major sites, but Richard wasn't interested in going inside or walking around them. Once seen, it was immediately off to the next. Belatedly he told us he wasn't much interested in museums and churches. He also wasn't much of a walker (as we, who had walked miles in Paris had no trouble with a small city like London) Richard was interested in finding a pub and after a beer he wanted to check out some ‘trendy’ shops in the area. Needless to say we were happy to get back on the Underground for the trip out and we vowed to return another day by ourselves. However, Richard did redeem himself by taking us to an excellent fish and chips place in Acton (run by a Chinese proprietor). Mollified by the meal we departed, amid the usual heavy traffic, to Oxford. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/7xPimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/7xPimage.png) [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/WWLimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/WWLimage.png) The traffic thinned down and the M40 was actually a pleasant drive. We managed to call Jennifer and get directions to her home. We arrived to two well-strung-out children swinging on banisters and talking a mile a minute (usually welcome for guests). Sandy was at a German lesson and Jennifer was soon to leave to a PTA meeting. We volunteered to babysit, Jennifer said yes but thankfully put the kids down before she left. Sandy returned to find me watching his TV and having a cup of coffee which must have been a bit disconcerting having never met (or heard perhaps) of Debbie and I. But we fell into quick conversation about he and Jennifer ending up at Oxford (he was a biochemist/cardiologist on a research sabbatical) and about Debbie and I ending up in St Vincent. Jennifer returned and Debbie came down from her shower and the conversation continued on the Peace Corps theme. We spent a long time trying to sort out a sensible life-after-Peace-Corps compromise. Finally too exhausted to delve deeper we went to bed. The next morning we had little time to talk. Sandy was off to work, the kids were off to school. Jennifer spent some time giving us directions around Oxford and gave us a few ideas about things to see in the surrounding countryside. Then we packed up, said our goodbyes and went down to Oxford. It is a beautiful place. I marveled at the architecture and history that surrounded the place. If the day hadn't been so miserable (cold, rainy and windy) it would have been a perfect visit. Well almost perfect. The one college I wanted to see Magdeline was closed. But CS Lewis and Sheldon Van Auken were very accurate in their descriptions of the place. I felt I had been there before. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/3rtimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/3rtimage.png) From there we drove out into the countryside visiting and lunching in a place called Minster Lovell (of Dr Dolittle fame) and on from there to Avebury. Avebury is like Stonehenge in that someone, a long time ago, erected these massive stones in a large circle, with groups of smaller ones inside in circles, with a huge trench and mound encircling it all. I was almost scary as we visited it as the sun was setting. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/0Edimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/0Edimage.png) **Minster Lovell** Checking around the area for lodgings we found nothing (that was open at least). Finally, trying to avoid the ‘Paris syndrome’ we stopped at a pub to ask. They recommended a farmhouse just across the way, and while we sat and had a beer, they called the owner. The farmhouse was beautiful. It was a big place that the owner-couple had decided to utilize more fully by having a bed and breakfast arrangement. It cost £8 per person. After settling in, we went back to the pub for a real English meal steak and kidney pie and a pint of bitter. I thought it was great. Deb said she could take it or leave it… back to our lodgings we spent some time talking with the owners, sitting in the living room, watching TV. Then it was up to bed. In the morning we had a wonderful breakfast and then headed back out to Avebury for a final look-see in better light. Then we pushed off for London again stopping in a town along the way so that Debbie could buy some shoes. We returned that evening to stay with Keith and Linda Harvey. This time Linda was home so we also got caught up with her on the latest runnings in her life and filled her in on St Vincent. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/V3zimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/V3zimage.png) **Avebury** Next day was Sunday and we had been invited to Jim and Rocio's for lunch. Again much talk about St Vincent, development work & ‘re-adjusting’. Most of the day passed quietly and relaxed. That evening Jim followed us back to K&L's, had a few beers and then we went to a pub. A pleasant day. Monday was our reassault on London. We got in so late that almost the first thing we did was to go to the Dickens Inn for lunch. It was a quaint old place with good (but not great) overpriced food, but it was in a lovely setting. The Tower of London was nearby but we didn't go in because of crowds, cost and time. The tower bridge is marvelous, I had assumed it was the Tower of London (confused stateside publicity). From there we walked a stretch of what used to be the old London Wall stopping at shops and taking our time. Our destination, the London Museum was closed so we set out for St Paul's. It is a beautiful cathedral and huge but we were struck with the same feeling we had in other big beautiful churches throughout Europe: that this place of worship was now a tourist trap somehow, losing its holiness. I suppose that when empty, and sitting in private prayer, that Holiness would return (since church is a body not a building) but it was hard and in some cases angering to see racks of postcards and souvenirs, open vending of candles in assorted sizes and people talking as though they were in Grand Central Station. Somehow the scene of Jesus at the temple throwing out the money changers came to mind. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/YDtimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/YDtimage.png) **The Dickens Inn** From St Paul's we set out for the British Museum of which, we were assured, was open. However I ducked into a phone booth first, checking on the possibility of catching the afternoon matinee of “Cats”. A long shot at such short notice. The notice wasn't long enough. “Sir” the voice replied “we are booked solid until April, 1985”. I was off to the museum. The only disappointment with the British museum was that the visit was much too short. We arrived at 3:30, expecting to walk around until closing at 6:30. Unfortunately I had read the sign wrong, the museum closed at 5:00 catching us in the middle of a wonderful exhibition of German prints. We were hustled out onto the street, we made the decision to find a play to attend that evening, and set about finding one. We eventually settled on West Side Story which I had seen in movie and play but which Deb had never seen (Idaho isolation I guess). We had a reasonable Chinese meal near the theater then watched, cried and laughed all the way through the performance. It was wonderful and our smooth ride back to Croydon, passing by the beautifully lit Tower bridge, made the evening PERFECT. In the morning, on our last day in England, we decided to make a mad dash for the Hygh Wycombe to see Judith's (Debbie's assistant in PT) aunt. We felt guilty because we had made many commitments to try to see people and friends of friends while in England and London but it was impossible to do it all. Actually, a little more planning on our part would have made things easier but…. we did get to Judith's aunt to chat and the drive was OK. But we could have seen more, I guess. We took Keith and Linda out to ‘dinner’ (using the last of my British pounds). And hit the sack ready for an early 6:00 a.m. drive out to the coast to catch the ferry back to France and on to Belgium. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/Xynimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/Xynimage.png) Easing ourselves out of bed, quietly packing up, and gently closing the door was our farewell to Keith and Linda. We cruised through the traffic-less (at last) countryside stopping once to purchase petrol. It was a hazy, almost foggy dawn and reminded me of descriptions I had heard of English mornings. We made it to Folkestone in good time, arriving just before needing to queue up for the loading procedure. Once loaded we stretched our legs a bit, did some final repacking and retired to the motorist lounge. We must have been spared the usual rough Channel crossings both ways because I was hardly disturbed by the rolling and pitching of the boat. Must have been well seasoned by our Bequia crossings. We set out across the French ocuntryside stopping once to change money at a closed bank and once again to buy a few provisions for lunch (no money). I was anxious to get to Brussels early enough to check our bags at the train station and drop the car off at the dealership. Amazingly enough, even though we got lost for a time in Brussels, we got through with everything with very few problems. The lady at the dealership even booked us into a hotel. Deb and I had a nice leisurely walk across town, doing a bit more sightseeing since the weather was so much better this time. We shopped for wine, packing tape and shampoo (odd items) and got settled in at the hotel. We had a last Belgium meal of bratwurst and french fries. [![image.png](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/scaled-1680-/ohiimage.png)](https://pcvbook.helgren.com/uploads/images/gallery/2026-01/ohiimage.png) The next morning we walked over to the train station, collected our bags and caught a quick train to the airport. Here we ran into a few problems with our plane. First we had to find where to check in which since Nouvelle Frontier and Minerve aren’t listed as airlines, poses a problem. We finally found a ridiculously small booth with a Nouvelle Frontier logo above it. But there was no place to check your luggage. Figuring it was a mistake, I searched once more and found a flight to Fort de France with the same flight number as on my ticket under the TWA banner. So we lugged our baggage over to that counter and waited. About an hour later, there was some activity behind the counter and they began to check us in. To my horror, I was told I must have my ticket stamped in the other line before we could be processed. So with Debbie left to guard our bags at the head of the line, I went over to the other line and stood for 45 minutes to have a 15-second stamping procedure performed on our tickets. Finally, checked in and bags gone (plus 2 hours) we could finally relax. This time the plane was new, clean and we had OK seats. We were nearly home. Our layover in Martinique was not notable except for changing a lot of money into Francs so we could buy some stuff at the duty-free shop just to find out that the place was closed (we were there an hour before flight time!). It never did open. The Eastern flight was early and during the 15-minute flight to St Lucia I managed to con the stewardess out of two cans of TAB. In St Lucia disaster struck our trusty WINKINK link was canceled (mechanical difficulty) and we were stuck. Fortunately, the Eastern rep (the WINLINK crew had long ago departed) made the arrangements for us to stay at a nearby guest house reassuring us that we would be reimbursed by WINLINK. Unfortunately we had no money but using an unsuspecting WINLINK employee as collateral we managed to get beds, breakfast and taxi rides. We arrived at the airport in the morning in at a downpour. Our first order of business was to get WINLINK to pay for our lodging and transportation. The manager assured us that all would be taken care of. So we waited and waited as the WINLINK manager arranged our flight for us. The WINLINK plane was still out of commission so immediately a new round of negotiations began between Eastern, WINLINK and LIAT as to who would pay the difference of the airfare to St Vincent. Once that was settled, LIAT took us over. We checked out bags and waited for our 11:00 a.m. flight (originally it was 8:55 then 10:30). So we waited and waited. The only people besides us who had been there since 8:55 where airport / airplane personnel. The airport was growing more and more deserted. No Airline desks were open. The LIAT lady said she'd let us know when the flight came in. 11:00 a.m. passed, then 11:10 and 11:20. Finally at 11:25 a small IAS plane landed. There was no announcement for its arrival or departure. Nobody told us to clear customs and immigration. So we took matters into our own hands and walked past the security guard who at least asked us if that was our plane. We said “yes” and he feet up, chair leading against the wall, said “well you better get on it then”. So we did. Our 8-seater was half full and we had a quick but extremely noisy flight back to St Vincent. It was nice to be home. Paul, deciphering WINLINK’s aborted schedule, was there to meet us. He took us to his home, he and Margaret fed us and finally we arrived home to our jungle house (no trimming while we were gone).